Sunday, March 14, 2010

Katherine NT

After foillowing the coast all the way I had to turn left somewhere.
I went further north in Quennsland than I had intended but Airlie Beach was the first blue ocean I had seen for a while.
With all the rain the rivers were flooding and the water beind spewed in to the ocean was brown. The rivers down the east coast are plentiful and enormous.
Everything is so green too and with those hills everywhere it is just all so spectacular.
I managed a ferry trip out to see Hamilton and Daydream Islands. They are really just big hills in the ocean. And of course Hamilton where they previously worked so hard to hide or camouflage any buildings, now has a giant cream coloured multi storey phallus plonked right where it can be seen to anyone arriving or leaving the island.
That was my one dry day in Airlie so a bit of sun was so lovely, even though it was pretty warm. The ground was waterlogged from all the rain. Fog down over the hills the next morning, saw me leaving for Townsville.
Passing more sugar cane and big black clouds everywhere, I decided to turn left before Townsville because I could see the rain that was there.
Heading west I passed through Charters Towers, which was full of historical buildings and then on to some rather forgetable towns through some very flat but green land.
Every grasshhopper splattered itself to the car through here.

Thursday, March 4, 2010

rain and sand flies

I ought to have stayed with a good thing and stuck with my little bit of luxury in Noosa.
But it was raining so much I thought that going north would be different. But its not.
I went through Gosford where they were giving flood warnings and I could see why.
There were big brown lakes where the football oval used to be, wherever creeks had flowed and roads were cut throughout the area.
I made it to Bundaberg after stopping at Eumundi markets not far from Noosa. It was really big and I notices a lot of the businesses from Noosa were set up there. It was wet and so not at its best I'm sure.
I left Bundaberg and found the road badly pot holed after the rain and even water over the road at one floodway.
An hour and a half later of rain and dodging holes in the road I drove into Agnes Water and made my way the 5 or so k's to 1770.
Opptimistically I put up the tent, mainly because I had wanted to come here and I had looked forward to camping right next to the beach.
It rained all night, so I had to have the tent shut up and then it was hot. High tide had brought the sand flies out too and a good many had made their way into the tent.
So an uncomfortable night later I am wondering whether to stay, but in a motel this time.
I may not be able to get out though anyway because of the floods.
Hmm interesting.

Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Byron and beyond

After Ballina showed itself at its best with beautiful surf and dolphins sharing the waves with surfers it sent me off with not only rain but thunder and lightning as well.
It was time to head for Byron Bay.
In the rain with all views of the coast obscured on the way there, I drove into a frantically busy town with my windows fogged up and not knnowing the lay of the town, drove around in circles trying to find somewhere to park.
Byron is quite big and sooo busy. Forget Broome or Margaret River in the busy seasons, this was mayhem.
The place is full of backpackers and most of them seemed to be on the street. waiting for the bus or pulling out in front of you on the road.
I was so glad to finally find Astra and to find that she lived 10 minutes out of Byron in Tygarah. We turned up a pot holed dirt road off the highway and made our way up the hill to a pretty tree lined lane and into the property she lives on. It is about 100acres that is shared by a dozen or so houses and cottages. A few people rent rooms in the main house.
Astra has a little timber cottage surrounded by green. Most of it has been planted so it feels like it is in the middle of beautiful gardens in a park. It has all been designed so that you cant see the other houses.
It was such a haven that I stayed for 5 days.
It rained on every day bar one. We got ourselves going then to the lighthouse and then up into the hills to the Crystal Castle. That is a place where enormous crystals are all over the garden and of course there is a crystal shop. It is on quite a few acres and over 20 years they have planted and developed the property as a place to go for peace and quiet.
We were ther for about 2 hours it was so lovely.
I deaded north finally in more rain thinking I would spend some time at Coolum Beach. It rained the whole way.
So I kept going pat Brisbane over the Gateway Bridge and past Coolum to Noosa.
After my lovely rest I felt like people so I found an apartment in a resort. They said at the visitors centre that the resort was old and tired so it was a bit cheaper. I thought they were going to tell me they had put me in the wrong room! It looked more than ok to me.
So with granite and stainless steel in the kitchen and marble tiles on the floor I am happily insconced there for a couple of days.
Not to break the pattern - its raining again. It hasnt stopped actually. In fact they are expecting floods and gails. But at least I am dry warm and comfortable.

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Out of the woods

I headed north to what I thought was going to be a nice quiet fishing village. It was in the Lakes district and sounded like the ideal getaway. The road led there through more tall timber and past large lakes. I was heading for Forster. And then I hit it. It was so busy. Another town on an inlet that led to ocean. I actually stayed in Tuncurry which is across the bridge from Forster.
Evidently it has a lot of retirees but also holiday makers by the size of the apartments overlooking the water. Driving around there was definitely not a relaxing exercise.
Loud fast cars also predominate in some of these areas.
Finding a xpot for my tent was also a challenge with the number of permanent annexes making the whole park claustrophobic. I did evetually find a spot - up the back- next to the oyster cleaning sheds that was a bit better.
I had two days there, one being wet, and couldn't wait to leave.
So onto Nambucca heads and through more trees.
It was fine until I was nearly there and then the rain started again. I found a nice cafe looking at the ocean on a cliff(even though the ocean was covered in fog). Right next to when the rain stopped was a caravan park that gave me a haven among the ferns and trees and palms, where I had noone around me. The ocean was ove the hill and I managed a walk into town and around the heads and back the next day - all in the sun! They have a big river and where the inlet comes in the rocks along the water are covered in graffiti. Apparently they like it.

I am now in Ballina, after passing Grafton, where everthing is old and historical. North of there were can fields and the road followed a river. It was very open and tall metal bridges spanned the river with warning lights in case the bridge opened.
I discovered the best cafe so far sitting on the ocean in Ballina. It helped that the morning was perfect and the dolphins were playing in pods just out past the surfers.

Friday, February 19, 2010

Heading inland

I had to break with my rule of sticking to the coast because it was flooded and the road was washed away. Just a minor inconvenience! So Batemans Bay was not to be on this trip.
I was advised to head up through Cooma. I made it to Bega where the river had cut the town in two but managed to follow some dodgy detour signs and found the road I needed.
It was so pretty, with rolling hills and farmland. It was a good road and by the time I reached Cooma, there were Akubras in evidence on the main street, and I realised I was in Snowy country.
I plugged on though and made it to Goulburn and stayed the night in the tent again. Kangaroos jumped behing my tent in the morning and into the bush.
Then onto Kiama through Moss vale. That was more beautiful countryside. Wineries and horsey properties abounded. A view to the east showed the coast in the distance and I was a long way up a hill. The drive down was another twisty turny and scary one. Just because it was a narrow road didnt stop trucks and buses from using it.
Plus the locals who have to drive down as fast as they can ignoring blind corners.
I just wanted to look at the tall trees and the palms growing under them, alongside tree ferns again.
By the time I reached the bottom of the hill I looked back on a sheer rock cliff. So how a road came down that is anyones guess.
Kiama was just stunning. Little rocky bay and grand ocean views with the town sitting right there amongst it all, but of course frantically busy.

I headed north up the coast a way to the Sea cliff bridge which hangs out ove the cliff north of Wollongong. I drove over it and then walked ove it as well for good measure. The road wound along the cliff as so many do around here. Rocks up the cliff and rocks in the water!

I wanted to get around Sydney and it was really worrying me but had had some good advise from the information centres on the way so set out with instructions in hand and proceeded to get lost in Liverpool and paid 2 tolls and the M5 that I didnt want to be on, got instructions from an Indian man ina servo and got lost again and finally found the elusive M7.
I was so relieved I didnt want to get off and just kept driving til I reached Newcastle. Now that was busy. I didnt have a clue where I was and left it to the satnav which couldnt shut up.
Then of course there were only caravan parks 30m minutes away and being 6pm by then I was stuffed.And you should see the on site van i scored

Monday, February 15, 2010

Rain and more rain

I am in Eden in New South Wales. Can't go on and can't go back.
It has rained so much floods are threatening.
The drive to here from Sale was rather precarious to say the least. The road was so wet and the pot holes tried to swallow us a few times.
Driving through the fog and the rain meant I couldnt stop to enjoy the tree ferns and the tall forests.

Great Ocean Road Cliffs

I left Apollo Bay and was soon hugging a cliff as I drove east.
It was quite busy combined with narrow, wet and winding. It was a bit hard to pull off and see because that all happened on the other side of the road and then it was hard to get back on because there were so many blind corners.
Add a few idiot drivers - if you have a new porsche you can pass 3 cars on a blind bend!!
The towns were busy being the weekend. There was a surf carnival on in Lorne.
Cafes looked to be busy in every town.
I stopped at Bells Beach to see if Bodhi was there (Patrick Swayze - Point Break). There was some good surf and quite a few surfers out.
I headed to Quennscliff through Torquay and Barwon Heads - it was all so busy and i wound my way following the ferry signs to get the car ferry to Sorrento. I caught it with only minutes to spare. It was a quick crossing but saved me the drive up and around Melbourne.
Then I did lots of guess work and found my way along highways and hill tops to Sale.